TRAVEL: THE BIG CITIES LIST - PART 1
We're starting to think seriously about traveling again. Yes, the world is on fire, and yes, there is always the chance that another COVID variant will rear its ugly head, but all this hunkering down business doesn't feel like we're really living anymore. Of course, we'll take along our masks, and if there's another booster available before we hit the road, we'll take that, too. But, (barring major complications) come May, we're outa here. After all, we're not getting any younger and I'd like to cross some items off my bucket list before I kick it.
We have some ideas for travel destinations but, given the current state of things, it's much too early to make reservations. However, all this musing on potential travel spots has led me to thoughts on some of my favorite American cities. Keep in mind that, although I've been to these great cities quite a few times, I don't claim to be an expert and am basing the following musings on my own experiences. Herewith are 6 BIG cities (I'll save the smaller ones for another day) that I consider my personal favorites.
1. Las Vegas, NV: Depending on who's reading this, Las Vegas may either seem like a logical choice for the number one position, or a selection most unseemly. What can I say? Like a fish, I'm drawn to shiny objects, and Las Vegas is one big shiny object setting smack in the middle of a vast, inhospitable landscape. When you pass by the numerous airport slot machines after disembarking from your flight, it's best to keep in mind that Las Vegas (as we know it) was conceived to relieve you of your hard-earned dollars. We're not big gamblers (our combined daily limit is $50) but the city still gets its cut, one way or the other.
What we love about Las Vegas:
(a) The visceral excitement of the teeming, gaudy, neon-lit Strip (aka Las Vegas Boulevard).
(b) The ravishingly over-the-top hotels that look more like old-Hollywood movie sets than dens of iniquity--just kidding, although if you're in the market for such, every sort of iniquity--some of it legal--may be had for the right price.
(c) The fabulous shows, of which Cirque du Soleil currently seems to have a monopoly ("O" at the Bellagio, and "The Beatles' Love" at the Mirage, are not to be missed). You'll also find big-name performers settling into long-term residencies at certain venues, frequent concert tours, honky-tonks, burlesque shows, art and history exhibitions, and a surprising lineup of events at the Las Vegas Convention Center (including the National Finals Rodeo held each December).
(d) The Linq High Roller. Okay, admittedly, this is more of a hypothetical choice based on the observations of others rather than my own. You know, daddy don't do high places. And the Linq High Roller, at 550 feet, is the world's tallest observation ferris wheel, overshadowing even the London Eye. However, I have watched the wheel moving at a glacial pace and the views of the city and surrounding desert are (reportedly) magnificent.
(e) Shopping. If you can think of it you can probably buy it in Las Vegas. Seriously, there are a dazzling array of shopping experiences available, ranging from the kitschiest tchotchkes to jaw-droppingly priced art and haute couture.
A few things to remember if you go:
(a) If you're staying on the Strip, expect to pay more for everything, from lodging to food. If you are keeping an eye on expenditures or traveling with family (or both), there are a number of budget-friendly hotels and restaurants a mere block or two off the main drag. Food on the Strip can be hit-or-miss so paying $100+ per plate for dinner is not a guarantee of quality.
(b) While any season is a fun time to go to Las Vegas, keep in mind that summer temps often top 100 degrees, which may pose difficulties for those struggling with health issues.
(c) Watch your purse and/or wallet! This goes for every city on the list. And, while you're at it, pay attention to what's going on around you.
(d) Las Vegas is really an adult destination so I'd think twice before taking the kids there if I were you. True, there are activities geared towards families but if you find yourself strolling along the Strip at night, you're almost sure to encounter scantily clad lovelies of all genders shaking their groove-thangs and advertising "the hottest show in town". You may even be propositioned whilst out and about. Resist, don't resist, just remember: what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas.
Maybe it says a lot about me that I put Las Vegas in the number one spot on my list but the older I get, the more I seem to love it.
2. New York, NY: No surprise here. New York has so much going on that it's hard to do everything in one visit, even if the visit runs to a week or more. Whether you're a theater-goer, foodie, architecture buff, art lover, history enthusiast, sports addict, party animal, or a combination of these things, New York has it all in spades. And then some.
What we love about New York:
(a) The museums. Any time we're in the city, we usually hit at least a couple of museums (notable favorites include the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Guggenheim and MoMA, as well as the American Museum of Natural History on Central Park West). There are a ton of other museums, as well, including the Leslie-Lohman LGBTQ Museum of Art which never seems to be open when we're in town.
(b) The food. With all the different ethnicities and neighborhoods in New York, the city is a culinary delight for all tastes and every budget. Since restaurants come and go at a pretty rapid pace, here's a very recent list of NYC's best from last week. And then there's this from someone who has lived in the city most of her life.
(c) The nightlife. So our current version of the nightlife is vastly different from what it would have been 20 or 30 years ago (and more). These days, staged events fit more easily within our parameters than clubs, and, on any given night, you can find lavish musical spectaculars....
....packing them in at various Broadway venues, as well as thought-provoking dramas and comedies off-Broadway (and off-off Broadway), the Metropolitan Opera, three major ballet companies,....
.... Radio City Music Hall, jazz concerts, cabaret performances, choral groups, and stuff I really shouldn't know about but somehow do.
For those of you who are interested in painting the town, here's this from Time Out (a great source for most all your needs).
And for LGBTQ party animals, there's this.
(d) The landmarks. You don't need me to list these but in case any have slipped your mind, here you go.
(e) The architecture. New York is more than skyscrapers towering high above the crowded sidewalks. I like the older 19th (and early 20th) Century buildings downtown, as well as the brownstones of the Upper West Side, and grand hotels like the St. Regis, the Plaza, and the Pierre. Note: While I enjoy looking at these hotels and their lobbies, we don't actually stay in them.
A few things to remember if you go:
(a) New York is one of the most expensive cities on the planet, so prepare yourself for sticker shock. HOWEVER, if you're paying upwards of $450 per night for a shoebox hotel room, or $800+ for a ticket to a Broadway show (both easily accomplished) then they probably saw you coming. Unless you've got money to burn, that is, in which case have at it! Research your sleeping and dining options ahead of time, consider your budget, and book accordingly. Theoretically, you should be able to find a hotel to fit any budget, although a lot may depend on when you will be there. I'm extremely picky about where I lay my head at night so not any old pillow will do. Cleanliness is my top priority so I'm a little OCD about that.
(b) New Yorkers have a reputation for rudeness, but (as is the case with Parisians) I think that's largely overstated. Having spent much time in small towns of the hinterlands I'd say there's an equal percentage of "nasty" people anywhere you go. There are a lot of young people in New York these days and I think that's made a big difference in the city's overall attitude.
(c) In my opinion, the city is best experienced (as much as possible) on foot. I've walked from Columbus Circle all the way down to Battery Park, which is no mean feat (mean to my feet maybe) but I had a day to kill and simply wanted to explore. Most normal people select a location and take the subway, although I'd avoid it during rush hours.
(d) If you plan to visit the landmarks--the Statue of Liberty or Empire State Building, for example--get there early and be prepared to wait in line.
(e) As in Las Vegas, watch your purse and wallet. Undoubtedly, you already know this but I felt the need to repeat it, especially in a city as crowded as New York. Crime isn't the problem it once was here but I'd be careful about venturing alone into dark, underpopulated areas after dark.
(f) Bring an umbrella. I've never brought one and always needed one. Every. Single. Time.
(g) Prioritize! Again, do some research. If you have limited time, decide what things are most important for you to do and see because if you play it by ear, there's a good chance you'll miss out on something amazing. Example: We were once in town for 6 days while Gillian Anderson was playing Blanche DuBois in A Streetcar Named Desire at the Brooklyn Academy of Music. Because we were basically winging it on that trip, I didn't find out about this until we were at LaGuardia waiting to board the plane back to Ft. Lauderdale. So I missed seeing one of my favorite actors in one of my favorite plays and I'm still kicking myself over that one.
New York came thisclose to being in the #1 position on this list but there's a feeling (my own?) that the city is becoming increasingly plutocratic (is that even possible?), which is a huge turnoff for me.
3. Los Angeles, CA: Well, the first thing you know, old Jed's a millionaire. Kinfolks said, "Jed move away from there!" Said, "Californy is the place you oughta be." So they loaded up the truck and moved to Beverly....Hills, that is....swimmin' pools....movie stars....
L.A. may seem like an odd choice but if you know me at all, it really isn't. Spread out over 502.7 square miles of land, and boasting a population of nearly 4 million (13+ mil in the greater metro area), Los Angeles is yet another shiny spot that has captured my affection and claimed its rightful place amongst my top 6 favorite big cities. By shiny, I don't mean shiny in the same way Las Vegas is shiny, although a tiny bit of that can be found along the Sunset Strip. I'm talking about the burnished shine of Hollywood legend, the shine found in movie studio tours, old film noir, Musso and Frank Grill, Sunset Boulevard, the curving, palm-lined roads through the hills, man-kinied muscle gods on roller skates in Venice Beach, glamorpusses on cell-phones in Le Petit Four. It's the film-industry history, and the idea of faded glamor that fascinates me.
What we love about Los Angeles:
(a,b,c) It's all about Hollywood , of course. If you're as big a movie fan as we are, I can probably stop right here. I'm not sure younger people would get the same intoxicating thrill from cruising celebrity homes, stepping into Roy Rogers' footprints preserved in cement, strolling through Hollywood Forever, or tracking down the various locations steeped in film noir, but, for true enthusiasts there's never a dull moment. There are also all the sights made even more famous by movies. You can catch a tour bus or study up and take your own private tour, and if you're interested in the studios, they have tours too.
The odds of you seeing a random celebrity out and about are probably higher than you think: we once shared a banquette with Josh Flagg in a restaurant on Sunset Blvd. Does that count? While we're at it, let us not overlook the less savory locales that, if not actually haunted, may raise the hair on the back of your neck. Although if you're looking for one of L.A.'s most infamous crime scenes, be advised that the murder house on Benedict Canyon is long-gone and the numbers in the address have been changed by new owners.
(d) The architecture. Not everything is as sleek and ultra-modern as the idea of L.A.might lead you to believe. Both Frank Gehry and Frank Lloyd Wright designed gems here during their lifetimes. I especially love Wright's Ennis House....
....featured in 1959's House On Haunted Hill (and also in the 1982 film, Blade Runner), as well as The Chemosphere (featured in Brian DePalma's Body Double). Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall downtown is truly remarkable (also downtown, don't miss the Bradbury Building), and the Griffith Observatory (and the view overlooking the city) is breathtaking. For a more comprehensive list of notable structures in L.A., check here or here. Craftsman-style cottages, bungalow courts, art-deco wonders, and Moorish (and other types) castles are all part of L.A.'s neighborhood landscapes.
A few things to remember if you go:
(a) You'll need a car. L.A. is not a walkable city. Whether you drive your own, rent a car or call Uber, you'll need wheels to get around this massive expanse. I'll say it again: You'll need a car!
(b) Hotels are a bit pricey so keep in mind the various airbnb's scattered in charming neighborhoods throughout the city. Even if you're not staying the night in one of them, some gawk-worthy hotels are the French castle-inspired Chateau Marmont, the glamorous Beverly Hills Hotel with its famed Polo Lounge, and the secluded, fancy-schmancy Hotel Bel-Air. My own bucket list includes the elegant Charlie Hotel in West Hollywood.
Boasting "storybook architecture" the Charlie was once owned by none other than Charlie Chaplin. All that Olde Hollywood atmosphere doesn't come cheap but I'm not getting any younger, either. There are any number of websites that will help you select the perfect hotel but here's a link to Trivago.
(c) L.A. is very LGBTQ-friendly West Hollywood may be the epicenter of gay life but Silver Lake is also a historic and happening destination for my tribe. And if you're at all interested in local LGBTQ history, check this out.
(d) Food. I'm not sure if L.A. is necessarily a world-renowned food destination but there are definitely fine dining experiences for every palate. Le Petit Four, Formosa Cafe, Rosaline, and Pink's, are personal favorites. This website will give you an extensive lowdown on dining options in L.A.
(e) Yes, the traffic will chew you up and spit you out. As I said in point #a, you will need a car. Conversely, you will likely spend more time sitting in traffic jams than actually driving said car. So, wherever your destination may be, try getting there when rush hour is not happening. Since we're not early risers, our general rule is to have breakfast (either on the property or somewhere within walking distance), leave the premises around 9:30(ish) and either return by 3:30(ish) for a disco nap and shower, or just stay out until 9 or 10 p.m.
(e) Day Trips. While Disneyland isn't even in L.A. (technically or geographically), it stirs up fond memories that will tug at your heart (and purse strings) if you're inclined to indulge your inner child. Just remember, it's a fair piece down the road from most of the places I've mentioned above. (Leave very early unless you're already staying there.) Even if you're not a surfer, beachcomber or sunbather you should spend at least one day gazing out at the Pacific and browsing through the shops of Santa Monica and Venice. If you enjoy hiking (I do, C doesn't), there are trails, steps and hidden stairs for the physically fit, and, yes, I do consider those to be "day trips".
(f) The weather. To me it's perfect. If, like us, you're from a hot, humid climate like South Florida, 90 degrees may sound extremely warm. But, it's a dry heat. No, seriously, it is. I know there's a point when it gets so hot that it doesn't matter if the heat is wet or dry but I've always been to L.A. during the summer months and still find it a welcome relief from our tropical climes. As is often the case with arid and semi-arid cities, nights can get cool, even in the high heat of summer. If you're not used to overnight temps dropping into the 60's or below, you'll probably want to bring along a sweater or windbreaker. We're actually terrible wusses (most Floridians are) when the mercury falls below 70 so many readers may not understand why I'm even bothering to mention the weather. Now you know. It's for any Floridians who may be reading this, and you know who you are.
Because of the worldwide impact of the movies and the city's infamous car culture, Los Angeles may be the iconic American city. I know, I know, there are at least 8 other cities that could lay claim to that title. Still, is there any other city that better conveys the idea of American culture and consumerism? From the time we're born, most of us are weaned on images gleaned from, and produced by, the Hollywood Dream Machine. In effect, we, ourselves, are products of that same machine. Of course, that doesn't make us movie stars <sigh>.
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