TRAVEL: THE BIG CITIES LIST PT. 2

I'd planned to give it a few days before diving into researching and writing this post but then came the cataract surgery and I've been disinclined to read or write much of anything lately. At any rate  I should soon be seeing in Panavision. Or at least not Mister Magoo-vision. Remember that this list is based on my own experiences, and those of others I know, and is not reflective of current travel limits or COVID concerns. If you plan on going to any of these places, please familiarize yourself with the local regulations and attitudes regarding the level of COVID risk. Anyhow, on with the remaining 3 favorite big cities.

New Orleans, LA.: Both a feast for the senses and an assault on the senses, New Orleans is a city of extremes and a cornucopia of delights. If the unofficial motto of Las Vegas is "what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas", New Orleans is all about letting the good times roll!  And boy do they ever roll! From the sweet perfume of night-blooming jasmine to late-night fleshpots to the ubiquitous jazz, New Orleans is a city alive to its own sensuality. 

What we love about New Orleans: 

(a) The food. Nowhere on earth will you find eating to be such a pleasure: it's almost decadent. The muffuletta's at **Central Grocery**, the shrimp and grits at Mr. B's Bistro, the crispy fried chicken at Willie Mae's Scotch House, and the highfalutin' vittles at Commander's Palace, are a few among many  Michelin-worthy meals for every taste and price-range. New Orleans is also famous for its beignets, which is basically deep-fried dough sprinkled with powdered sugar. Sounds simple but they're amazing with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate. 

Some restaurants are better than others but I've never had a bad meal in New Orleans. If you're going to blow your diet, this is the place to do it.  **Central Grocery is currently closed and undergoing repairs from Hurricane Ida. See their website for updates.**

(b) The music. You can generally find at least one jazz band playing on a French Quarter sidewalk or in Jackson Square, but Frenchman Street in the Faubourg Marigny is where it's really happening. The clubs throw open their doors and let the music pour out into the street. You'd think it would be a cacophony of noise but, instead, it's a magnificent onslaught of sound and fury (to paraphrase Faulkner) that stirs the soul and sends shivers down the spine (in a good way, trust me). And don't overlook the fabled Preservation Hall in the French Quarter, home to legendary jazz since 1961. While jazz is synonymous with New Orleans, there are live music venues offering everything from funk-rock to blues. 

(c) The history and architecture. Founded by the French in 1718, New Orleans was ceded to Spain less than 50 years later, returned to France in 1800, and sold (as part of the Louisiana Purchase) to the United States 3 years after that. The British unsuccessfully tried to capture the city during the War of 1812, and New Orleans, along with the rest of Louisiana, was swept up into the Confederacy prior to the American Civil War. That's a lot of history to unpack, and it goes hand-in-hand with the incredible architecture popularized during each period of the city's tumultuous lifespan. The French Quarter (aka the Vieux Carre) is the oldest neighborhood in the city and the buildings there, dating back to the 1700's, are particularly reflective of French and Spanish rule. Nearby, the Garden District, developed in the 1800's, offers a glimpse into (mostly) post-Civil War opulence with its grand mansions and shaded avenues, cozy cottages and the fabulously atmospheric Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 (a must if you're in town for Halloween). In between the French Quarter and Garden District is the now-trendy Warehouse District, which is a sort combination of old and new, and the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods, on the other side of the French Quarter, offer their own historic charm and unique dwellings. 

(d) Laissez les bon temps rouler! Although every day in New Orleans may seem like a major event, I've only ever been there during MAJOR EVENTS. I'm talking about Mardi Gras, Halloween and Southern Decadence, although--pre-COVID--there were over 130 other celebrations happening in New Orleans throughout the year. On these occasions, and, I'd guess, most weekends, the French Quarter is Party Central and Bourbon Street its main thoroughfare. While we've gotten a little long in the tooth for all that carrying on, it's fun to bear witness to the dazzling spectacle on parade in the streets and clubs. 

I've already provided a list of live music venues but here's a (hopefully) comprehensive list of nightclubs of every stripe in New Orleans. 

And for culture vultures, New Orleans also offers dance performances, the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, theatrical performances, and art museums.

 

Things to know if you go, ESPECIALLY DURING MAJOR CELEBRATIONS:

(a) If it's your first time there, try going to New Orleans when there's not a big party going on. Especially if you're more interested in checking out the history, music and food than in drinking and carousing your way to Nirvana. 

(b) Be aware of who is around you and what is going on! This goes hand-in-hand with my famous advice to keep a grip on your purse and wallet, except this may be even more pertinent when visiting the city of New Orleans. While the French Quarter is great fun, it's easy to get a little careless, especially if you've imbibed a Hurricane or two (or 3 or 10). With any number of revelers (many in their late teens and early 20's) jammed together in various states of drunkenness and/or altered states, things can get out of hand rather quickly. 

(c) If you're in the French Quarter you will probably see sights that can't be unseen. Let that be a given during peak times. If you're queasy about drunken debauchery, you need to gird your loins before getting off the plane. Many people come here, largely, to party and there are drunks galore: all that liquor flowing can have a disagreeable effect on even the steadiest constitutions. Be prepared for puking, PDA's, coeds flashing boobs for beads, whip-snapping dominatrices in leather corsets, jock-strap lube-wrestlers and things even I can't conjure up in my fevered imagination. On the flip side of the coin, the Mardi Gras parade has fabulous floats manned by magnificently costumed Krewes, something you don't want to miss.  

(e) There are plenty of hotels in the city although if you're going during Mardi Gras (or another big celebration) you may need to make reservations up to a year in advance. Since New Orleans is so full of history, there are also many abodes of consequence rented out by airbnb and other outlets. I've stayed in an 18th Century carriage house in the French Quarter, an old inn on the edge of Marigny, the venerable Hotel Monteleone and the Ace Hotel in the Warehouse District; they're all unique and have their own charms. 

(f) The weather. New Orleans is situated between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain. In the summer, the climate may best be categorized as soupy or soggy. Be prepared to perspire if you go for Southern Decadence, or at any other time between Memorial Day and Columbus (Indigenous Peoples?) Day (give or take a week). Keep in mind that it is not uncommon for an actual hurricane (as opposed to the drink) to blow ashore near New Orleans so keep an eye on weather updates before going. 

I've spent a lot of space writing about New Orleans but it is a Grand Old City full of secrets, history and allure. Even if you never set foot on Bourbon Street, there is plenty to see and do in this amazing city. 

Boston, MA: Few American cities conjure up images of our nation's history more than Boston. The Boston Tea Party, the Battle of Bunker Hill, the Boston Massacre, Paul Revere's midnight ride, the city's reputation as "the Birthplace of the American Revolution" (and "the Cradle of Liberty"), have all been cemented in the minds of generations of schoolkids (at least the ones who paid attention) across the country. Ever the history fan, I approached Boston with a sense of awe and reverence the first time I went there; by that time, the city had achieved a near-mythical status in my imagination. Was it what I thought it would be? Well, yes and no. It is, after all, a big city and the sight of landmarks such as the Old State House (pictured above) and Faneuil Hall plotzed down in the middle of an urban landscape is a bit disconcerting, at first. However, once you walk along the Freedom Trail taking you from one celebrated landmark to the next, you tend to go with the flow of history and let it carry you back into our tumultuous past. 

What we love about Boston: 

(a) The history, of course (see above). This includes everything on the Freedom Trail--Paul Revere's house in the North End, the oldest area of Boston,....

....the Old North Church, the burial grounds, the Old Corner Bookstore, the Old South Meeting House, the Bunker Hill Monument, et.al.--as well as the U.S.S. Constitution (aka Old Ironsides) docked across the harbor in Charlestown, the leafy greenspace of Boston Common (established in 1634), the Federal-style rowhouses of Beacon Hill, the homes of John and John Quincy Adams in nearby Quincy....

....and one of America's most beloved baseball parks, Fenway Park (constructed in 1912). Boston was an important center for the Abolitionist Movement, and is still home to the African Meeting House, Julia Ward Howe's house, the Jackson Homestead (a stop on the Underground Railroad just west of the city), and Harriet Tubman Park. Of more recent times is the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum and, of course, the exterior of Cheers at the foot of Beacon Hill. In fact, so much of Boston has such historical significance that I've probably forgot to mention a few must-sees. We have visited the city numerous times and I probably still haven't seen all the places of interest.  

(b) Art and Culture: We're usually on the lookout for art museums in any city we visit but Boston is fortunate enough to have the renowned Museum of Fine Arts, where it's easy to spend an entire day without realizing it, and the wonderfully eclectic Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum (site of a notorious art heist in 1990--itself, the subject of a recent  Netflix documentary). There's also a fine art museum at Harvard University. (For a complete list of Boston area museums click here.) If you're a music lover, the Boston Pops is a national treasure....

....plus there are always musical artists performing at numerous venues throughout the city. The Boston Ballet currently has productions in progress, and Harvard Square is an interesting spot to hang out and have coffee or a brew. 

(c) The Bookstores (and Newbury Street): Okay, these are not necessarily one and the same but if you're a book lover, Boston has hidden treasures. One of my favorites is Commonwealth Books and Old Prints (pictured above) located in a sort of alleyway, which is actually the oldest street in Boston (1630)! I had no idea until I looked at the website. This store has just about everything but you'll need to reserve some time for browsing as things always seemed a bit askew whenever I was there (it's been awhile). I was once digging through a pile of random paperbacks and found a 1968 edition of the notorious pulp "classic", Midtown Queen, by Julian Mark, which turned out to be worth a few bucks. And what would a bookstore be without a bookstore cat? There used to be a fabulous old feline in residence when I was a Commonwealth customer....

....although I understand that Dusty has moved on to that great bookstore in the sky. Less than a 10 minute walk away is another of my favorites, Brattle Book Shop, established in 1825. Larger and better organized than Commonwealth (though no more beloved) Brattle Book Shop is also full of surprises. Between these two stores alone, you can while away an entire day--trust me, I know. I can't vouch for all the bookstores listed here but I'm sure they're worth checking out if you have the time. And don't forget Newbury Comics over on Newbury Street, one of my favorite geek-out spots. Newbury Street, located west of Boston Common (and the Public Garden), is a colorful stroll into the upscale Back Bay neighborhood, and overflowing with various shopping opportunities. 

(d) Food: To me, Boston has the best seafood of anyplace I've been in the USA. The Union Oyster House has been serving up food since 1826 and is one of the oldest continually operating restaurants in the country.

While something of a hot spot for tourists on the Freedom Trail, it's well worth a visit for their clam chowder, oysters and (my favorite) fried clams. I was sad to see that their old competitor, Durgin-Park, a favorite from times past, permanently closed its doors a few years ago. Two other seafood places I highly recommend are the Yankee Lobster (for the lobster roll) and Legal Harborside, the "flagship location of the Legal Sea Foods empire", according to Time Out. Both are excellent and in the seaport district. For other excellent seafood choices in Boston check here. 

Boston's North End is not only home to history but it's also known for having many fine Italian restaurants, as well as a number of feasts and festivals. Since I can't remember the name of any of the outstanding North End eateries where we dined in the past (prior to 2016) I'll post this link to help you out. Boston also has some very good Chinese restaurants so I hope this helps. There's used to be a fairly good Wagamama at the Faneuil Hall Marketplace, as well as a number of other eating establishments. With its Irish heritage, Boston has a strong selection of Irish pubs, and the Cornish pasties (especially the bangers and mash) at the Cornish Pasty Co. are quite tdf. 

(e) Day Trips: Travel in any direction from Boston and you'll find great destinations to spend a day (or more) exploring. Going north, Salem is an easy drive and a 30-minute train ride from downtown Boston. A colonial town most famous for the notorious witch trials held there in 1692, Salem is chock full of history and literary renown, as well as beautiful Colonial and Georgian homes. If you go, make sure to check out the House of the Seven Gables, setting of Nathaniel Hawthorne's classic novel, and the Peabody-Essex Museum. Further north, you'll find Gloucester, the oldest seaport in the country, artsy Rockport, and lovely Newburyport, on the border with New Hampshire. 

Driving west of Boston, you may find yourself in Northampton, home of Smith College, or nearby Amherst, Emily Dickinson's hometown, as well as UMass Amherst. You may be tempted to go further afield and wind up in the Berkshire towns of Great Barrington, North Adams or Lenox. They're wonderful places but you'll probably need to consider making these overnight trips. 

An hour and a half south of Boston lies the fantastic glamor and history of Newport, RI. With the extravagant "cottages" of long-dead one percenters,....

 

....the gorgeous cliff walk,....

....colonial homes, and charming Thames Street, not to mention the White Horse Tavern, first opened in 1673, Newport is another destination where you can easily lose track of time during your copious explorations. 

Finally, if you're blowing in an easterly direction, you can catch the ferry out to the land's end LGBT mecca of Provincetown, or take a drive out to Plymouth, site of the first Pilgrim settlement (1620), the very interesting Plimoth Village and the famed Plymouth Rock (although it's, literally, a rock that scarcely qualifies as a boulder). Further out on Cape Cod you can stop in Falmouth or drive on to Wood's Hole, home to several marine biology institutions and a ferry-ride away from Martha's Vineyard, consisting of several well-known villages including Edgartown, Oak Bluffs and Tisbury, each with its own distinct and colorful personality. Chappaquiddick Island is also considered part of Martha's Vineyard, and there's a certain notoriety connected with this serenely beautiful isle. 

While checking out the famed fall foliage in New England, you might consider making Boston your home base. As often as we've been to Boston, we've never been up to see the leaves in full autumn splendor so that's very high on the Bucket List. With C's aversion to cold weather, we'll probably never get to New England during the winter although a guy can dream.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

San Francisco, CA: While San Francisco would seem to be a no-brainer for anyone's list of favorite American cities, its presence on my list was, by no means, a given. In fact, I can think of several other big cities offering more in the way of history, and, at the same time, a considerably less problematic present. Maybe it's the idea of San Francisco that appeals to me, a place in my mind that represents freedom for people like myself, as well as a cradle for progressive ideas. At least that was the San Francisco I was first introduced to as a kid when my dad spent a summer working on his Doctorate in Education at UC Berkeley. I'm not sure when San Francisco began to change but it has come a long way from what it was. It has gone well beyond mere gentrification, as one plague seems to have replaced another. While San Francisco was once ground zero for the AIDS epidemic, it now appears to be an epicenter for homelessness (and hopelessness): ironically (or, perhaps, not), luxury and privilege exists cheek-to-jowl with unwashed masses dressed in rags. I once saw a man dozing on a queen-size mattress next to a traffic light at the foot of Nob Hill. I've also seen a man lying dead on a sidewalk along Folsom Street, and another man digging through a trash bin next to a luxury hotel off Union Square. The scope of this tragedy is not easily dispelled from memory, so even though I have a massive--fondness?--for San Francisco, I also believe it's a city that's lost its way. Much like New York, it is fast becoming a city of, by and for the very wealthy but, for my own reasons, I'm more disappointed in San Francisco. However, after bemoaning the current state of the city, I must say it is, in many ways, a lovely and charming place well worth visiting.

What we love about San Francisco: 

(a)  The neighborhoods. North Beach, Chinatown, The Castro, Haight-Ashbury, Nob Hill, the Mission District and Russian Hill are just a few of the totally unique and lovely areas of San Francisco that help give the city its sophisticated, multi-cultural flavor. As mentioned in the article linked to this heading, you could spend well over a week exploring the numerous attractions each neighborhood has to offer. 

(b) The sights. This goes hand-in-hand with neighborhoods because most have specific sights that must be seen by visitors to the city. No trip to San Francisco would be complete without a visit to the iconic Golden Gate Bridge....

....or a drive down "the crookedest street in the world" (Lombard Street, actually the second-crookedest). World-famous Fisherman's Wharf has Ghirardelli Square and the eclectic Cannery, as well as sun-bathing sea lions and fine dining. Golden Gate Park is an urban greenspace that is home to the renowned de Young Fine Arts Museum, California Academy of Sciences Museum/Steinhart Aquarium, Japanese Tea Garden and the San Francisco Botanical Garden. If you're not museumed out, you'll also want to hit the California Palace of the Legion of Honor, the Palace of Fine Arts (originally constructed for the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition),The Asian Art Museum and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. 

Coit Tower is another must-see that's become ingrained in our minds through the movies. There are any number of tours available to those requiring a tighter schedule so you can check them out here. 

(c) Day Trips. I'm listing Alcatraz as a day trip because even though it's a 15-minute ferry ride from the mainland, it will take you half a day to explore the infamous penitentiary. Across the Golden Gate Bridge is gorgeous Marin County, where you can hike among the breathtaking redwoods of  Muir Woods and Mt. Tam, or stroll along Stinson Beach. Further up the road is Bodega Bay, the fishing village made famous by Alfred Hitchcock in The Birds. 

A couple of hours south of San Francisco lies Monterey (home of the world-famous Monterey Bay Aquarium) and the town of Carmel-by-the-sea, although you may want to get up early for this trip. Situated on Monterey Bay, Carmel is an artsy community full of storybook cottages and a quaint main street (Ocean Avenue) packed with all sorts of shops. Next time we go, we're heading northeast to Napa Valley, (a destination we've missed) where we can tour a winery or two, and enjoy some great vittles. 

The last time we were in San Francisco, unbeknownst to us, C had pneumonia so we weren't having much of a culinary experience or anything in the way of nightlife (look here for LGBTQ nightlife).

Culture vultures will love the San Francisco Ballet, San Francisco Opera (celebrating its 100th birthday this year), the Orpheum and Curran Theatres, and the historic Castro Theatre (which I've heard will soon stop showing films and become an events venue). And if you're a sports fan and in town at the right time, you could see the 49ers, the Golden State Warriors, the Giants or the Oakland A's in action. 

Compared to the other cities on this list, it seems like I'm giving San Francisco the short end of the stick but since having surgery on my eye last week, it's been extremely difficult for me to remain online for long periods of time. Luckily (or maybe not), I finished writing about all the cities except San Francisco before the surgery. Once my eyes start coordinating with each other, I should be good to ramble on as before, although some may find that a mixed blessing.